Avant-Garde Dials For The Collector

India’s appetite for fine watchmaking is at a point of inflection. Swiss watch exports to the country have grown the fastest for three consecutive years, driven by a discerning new class of buyers, rising awareness of independent brands, and a renewed appreciation for craftsmanship. With an expanding network of boutiques like Rolex, Omega, and Grand Seiko, Indian watch buyers are maturing fast to build their collections, often seeking their fifth or sixth timepieces that go beyond the traditional round dials and classic hand configurations. Many enthusiasts are increasingly drawn to timepieces that break from convention—watches that spark conversation, challenge norms, and reflect a bold sense of individuality. Whether it’s through floating discs, fluid-filled chambers, or cosmic complications, these timepieces with unusual dials redefine what a watch can be. From this year’s most exciting launches, here are five standout timepieces redefining what it means to tell time in 2025.

U-BOAT U-65

The U-BOAT U-65 stands out for its creativity and nonconformity. Housed in a 44mm satin-finished 316L stainless steel case (also available with black PVD treatment), it features an ultra-domed sapphire crystal. U-BOAT’s exclusive Oil Immersion System encases movement in fluid, creating a striking 3D effect, while a floating compensation bubble glides over the markers.

Cartier Tank à Guichets

Cartier revives an icon with the reissue of the 1928 Tank à Guichets, a limited edition of 200 pieces that exemplifies early digital-style horology. The platinum case repositions the winding crown at 12 o’clock, while the manual calibre 9755 MC powers jumping hour and trailing minute apertures. The hour window is rotated counterclockwise to 10 o’clock, while the wandering minutes appear at 4 o’clock, both giving a quirky twist to an otherwise minimalist dial. For connoisseurs of historic design and subtle complication, the Tank à Guichets is a rare blend of old-world charm and modern execution.

Grönefeld 1944 Tanfana

Tim and Bart Grönefeld unveil their first ladies’ watch, the 1944 Tanfana, honouring a local goddess and their mother’s birth year. Featuring a brand new blue aventurine dial framed in a diamond-set red gold case, it houses an automatic three-hand movement with the brand’s signature finishing—a graceful tribute blending tradition and elegance. The Tanfana is not just a timepiece; it’s a tribute—rich in meaning and crafted with care, perfectly balancing tradition and innovation.

Ressence Type 7

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Ressence Type 7, a 41mm Grade 5 titanium-cased watch with the iconic oil-filled dial, is redefining modern watchmaking. This dial allows time to appear as if projected directly onto the glass. This is the first model with the GMT function at Ressence and at its heart lies the patented ROCS 7 movement that offers an intuitive reading of time. There are two 80 piece-only limited-edition versions—XV Aquamarine and Night Blue.

Trilobe Une Folle Journée

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Introduced in 2022, Trilobe’s Une Folle Journée redefined time display by replacing the base dial with a dynamic, open architecture beneath a domed sapphire crystal. The 2025 edition features a rhodium-plated baseplate and three floating DLC-coated titanium rings in blue, green, or black that rotate independently to mark hours, minutes, and seconds—without any central hands. Housed in a 40.5mm Grade 5 titanium case, this piece is both futuristic and poetic.