'I visited Croatia's oldest city - I couldn't believe one major difference to the UK'

’s oldest city is possibly its coolest. With history dating back 3,000 years, the of Zadar is a living museum of ancient and medieval heritage. Butand its modern artistic installations have an otherworldly

soaking up this city of colourful contrasts with a guided tour through its old town. Packed on to a peninsula and surrounded by high city walls, its car-free, grid-like streets are full of remnants of its Roman past that are protected by Unesco.

It boasts a collection of stunning Roman Catholic churches and if you go up to the tower of the Cathedral of St Anastasia you will be rewarded with views over the pantiles to the sea and islands in one direction and the Velebit mountains in the other.

Another highlight is the Roman Forum, which was built between the 1st century BC and the 3rd century AD, and would have been the centre of everyday life back then.

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, there’s an upbeat, friendly atmosphere – natural for a stylish, sun-soaked seaside town like this. And I happened to be in the right place at the right time to see a traditional Zadar wedding.

Brides and grooms parade through streets with their entourage, together for an impromptu celebration with music and dancing. With its handsome buildings, rich history, and a fabulous setting, backed by limestone cliffs and dreamy scattered islands, you’d think Zadar would be a tourist hotspot, like Dubrovnik and Split, or come with a hefty price tag.

Not so. It is , making it a prime destination for an authentic, quieter while not breaking the bank. Tourists in Dubrovnik might be paying upwards of £4 for a pint, but in Zadar you’ll get change from £3.

Zadar also has one of the world’s most unique man-made attractions. The Sea Organ stands out as a masterpiece of sound art. Installed in 2005 and stretching 76 yards along the seafront, waves crash against marble steps, and hidden tubes beneath turn the water into an organ-like melody.

The Greeting to the Sun – a large solar-powered installation – is right next to the Sea Organ, offering a mesmerising light display in the early evening. Then there is Zadar’s sunset, once described by Alfred Hitchcock as the world’s most beautiful.

Zadar is a great city for hanging out, people-watching and its bar life – try its signature tipple, the sour cherry-flavoured Maraska. is also renowned for its crystal clear waters, so join the other swimmers for a quick dip in the Adriatic.

The perfect retreat, after a day of sightseeing, is the five-star Falkensteiner Resort Punta Skala, 20 minutes out of Zadar. Set on a private peninsula, with pristine beaches and views of the Velebit mountains, it is a wonderful setting for relaxation. And the resort is .

It offers a range of accommodation including luxury villas and a family hotel. I stayed at the Falkensteiner Hotel and Spa Iadera, in a Deluxe Sea View room with a balcony overlooking the mountains and sea.

Wellness is at the core, with an infinity pool offering panoramic views and a spa that provides treatments inspired by the local culture. One of the highlights was a back and shoulder massage, followed by a relaxing dip in the thalasso pool that uses saltwater instead of chlorine.

Dining at the resort was equally impressive. Jadran, the hotel’s main restaurant, offers a large selection of Croatian and international dishes with a constantly changing menu and local wines only available in Croatia. For something different, there is Spice, which specialises in sushi and Asian-inspired dishes, and Planika, with a great selection of local wines to choose from and a pistachio tiramisu that was a staple throughout the trip.

But the show-stopper came on my final day, when I discovered the Seafood Restaurant Bracera, tucked away on the private peninsula. I indulged in the freshly caught sea bass, homemade gnocchi, and a goats’ cheese Basque cheesecake, all from a table perched right on the edge of a private cove.

A bike tour, organised by the reception team, took me through the quaint town of Nin. Only a 15-minute drive from the resort, Nin is a charming spot to grab a coffee and explore the shops.

It was also the first royal town in the 9th century and a permanent seat for several Croatian Kings. Do visit the long and very shallow Queen’s Beach, which got its name as it was thought to be a favourite of the wife of the first Croatian king, King Tomislav.

The tour took in the Salt Museum, where I stocked up on the famous “Flower of Salt”, renowned for its taste and mineral content. The waters of the Adriatic are so inviting and I couldn’t resist booking on to a boat trip from the hotel to soak in all the pretty villages and scenery all the way to Zadar. It’s a spectacular way to take in the beauty of the area.

Despite being the country’s fifth largest city, and once the Dalmatian capital, Zadar offers a laid-back vibe for those wanting to combine an alluring city break with a splash of seaside happiness. With direct flights from London, a luxurious stay at the Falkensteiner Resort, and culture without the crowds, my Croatian mini break was in a class of its own.

Book the holiday

offers seven nights on B&B at the Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Iadera in Punta Skala, Croatia, from £1,779pp including flights from Stansted on October 5, private transfers and access to spa and sports club. Other UK airports also available. . More info at